優勝美地國家公園 – 岩場開發 / 維護公告



Camp 4, Yosemite Valley. Oct, 2011


這是我在 2011 年造訪優勝美地時,在 Camp 4 佈告欄上看到的園方公告,最近整理檔案時挖到這張照片,就順便翻成中文供大家參考。我英文能力有限,因此文末附上原文,若翻譯有誤,還請不吝指正。


 

路線維護與開發政策

規定:

優勝美地只允許手工鑽孔設置攀岩錨栓,使用工具機鑽孔是違法行為。國家公園管理處不會檢查、維護、或修復園區內的任何錨栓以及攀岩相關設施。

而在這項簡單規定的背後,是優勝美地攀岩社群極為堅定的岩場開發 / 維護倫理。如果你計畫開發新路線,或更動既有路線,請在永久改變岩壁現況之前,先徵詢熟悉優勝美地攀岩路線歷史與傳統的在地攀岩者。沒人想看到岩壁無端遭受鑽孔設置錨栓後又被移除所造成的破壞。

「園藝行為」(諷刺為了攀岩將存活在岩壁上的植物移除的行為) 在優勝美地是不被允許的。雖然攀岩者有時會為了放置保護支點,或為了使用裂隙手點而移除岩壁上的植物,但這與開發一塊新區域所造成的破壞相比,則顯得微不足道。在大興土木之前請三思,放下工具,或許有些地方就是不該攀岩。

新路線:開發新路線所造成的破壞,遠比後續攀岩者帶來的破壞要嚴重得多。如果你正在考慮開發一條新路線,不妨自問「這條路線是不是真的值得破壞這面岩壁?」、「這是一條大家都會喜歡的經典路線,或只是我單純想開一條屬於我自己的路線?」、「50 年後的攀岩者會怎麼看這條路線或這支錨栓?」。優勝美地已經開發了上千條路線,在名留芳史前,不妨再多試試其他路線。


理由:

優勝美地絕大多數的攀岩區域都在法定荒野保護區內,任何工具機,包含電鑽,都禁止使用。除了這項國會授權的法規之外,園方也希望藉此規定,讓攀岩者享受園區內攀岩樂趣的同時,降低攀岩活動所帶來的環境衝擊。因此,園方容許攀岩者享有特權,讓他們得以在優勝美地的花崗岩壁上選擇合適的位置設置永久性錨栓,但透過「僅限手工鑽孔」的方式來限制其鑽孔數量。


攀岩者是唯一被容許改變優勝美地岩壁原貌的使用者,而這項特權意味著我們必須盡全力降低我們帶來的環境衝擊。


 

Bolting Policy and New Routes

The Rules:

Drilling protection bolts for climbing is permitted in Yosemite as long as it is done by hand. Motorized power drills are illegal. The National Park Service does not inspect, maintain, or repair bolts and other climbing equipment anywhere in the park.

Beyond this simple rule, there is an extremely strong community bolting ethic in Yosemite. If you plan to bolt a new route or alter an existing one, talk with local climbers who are familiar with Yosemite's route history and traditions before permanently altering the cliff face. No one wants to see the rock damaged by bolts being placed and chopped.

"Gardening" (the ironic name given to removing plant life from cracks) is not allowed in Yosemite. Many climbers remove the occasional bit of grass or leaves to place protection or find a finger-lock, but this is nothing compared to the serious damage done establishing a new area. Think twice before breaking out the rake and wire brush. Actually, think three times, and then put the rake and brush back where they belong. Maybe some things just weren't meant to be climbed.

New Routes: The damage caused establishing a new route is far greater than the that caused by each subsequent party. If you are considering establishing a new route ask yourself, "Is this route worth the damage it will cause?" "Is it a classic line that others will enjoy climbing, or I am simply interested in putting up my own route?" "What will climbers fifty years from now think of this route or this bolt?" There are thousands of established routes in Yosemite already – maybe try a few more of those before making a new mark on Yosemite's wilderness.


The Reasons:

Most of the Yosemite's climbing areas are in designated wilderness, and mechanized items, including power drills, are not allowed in these areas. In addition to this congressional mandate, the park has an interest in limiting the impacts from climbing while enabling climbers to enjoy the park. The resulting rule allows climbers the unusual privilege of permanently altering Yosemite's granite cliffs by adding bolts in the location of their choosing, but inherently limits the number of those bolts by requiring that they be hand drilled.


Climbers are the only user group allowed to permanently alter Yosemite's cliffs. This privilege comes with the responsibility to minimize our impact as much as possible.