CHRONICLE OF EVENTS
Time goes by, washed away the foolhardy and amateurish looking of Long Dong climbers when they were new to this place, and it also helped the climbing community to converge an unique culture. Over these decades, continuous events kept affecting this community again and again, pondering it to its appearance of nowadays. By looking into the list of events, we are able to find out the seeds that are sowed for us by early people, and learn the tracks of the changing of Long Dong climbing community. By having those seeds, we will have the opportunity to irrigate them to abundant fruits; learning those tracks, we will be able to determine our future direction.
1978 - 1982
Uenxi Chang found Long Dong, and recruit Shaw Chen, Kuang-Lung Tsai, and so others to develop this area.
1984 / 06 / 03
3rd National Rock Climbing Observation Tour
1985 / 05 / 25
4th National Rock Climbing Observation Tour
1986 / 10 / 30
5th National Rock Climbing Observation Tour (Renamed as Zhongzheng Cup Rock Climbing Competition since then)
1986 / 11 / 03
Rock Climbing Performance of International Mountaineering Conference
1987 / 08 / 24
Two rock climbers Tzu-Chi Mao and Shih-Bi Yang married on Wedding Route, the name of the route is renowned by this event
1988 / 05 / 21
Long Dong Rock Climbing Observation Tour
1988 / 11 / 20
中正杯全國攀岩賽 (預賽：佈告欄 / 決賽：音樂廳)
Zhongzheng Cup National Rock Climbing Competition (Tryout: Bulletin Board / Final: Music Hall)
1989 / 11 / 11
第八屆中正盃攀岩賽 - 首次國際攀岩邀請賽 - 初學組與女子組：音樂廳右側，男子組初賽：蠟燭台 (現稱鐘塔) - 結婚的日子
8th Zhongzheng Cup Rock Climbing Competition - The first international rock climbing invitation tournament (Beginners and women's: right side of Music Hall / Men's tryout: Clocktower - Wedding Days)
At the same day, the climbers from all over Taiwan gathered at Long Dong, and published Long Dong Declaration
1990 / 09 / 28
第九屆中正盃 - 台港邀請賽
8th Zhongzheng Cup Rock Climbing Competition - Taiwan / Hong Kong Invitation Tournament
1993 / 02
Nai-Shun Liu aggregated and published "Da Pao Yen (Big Cannon Cliff) and Long Dong Guidebook".
1994 / 05
「5.11攀岩俱樂部」成立 - 原名5.11基金會。初期僅七人，以王大濟為首，後擴大為5.11攀岩俱樂部。
"5.11 Rock Climbing Club" (正確譯名待大濟確認) established - Originally named "5.11 Foundation". Lead by Ta-Chi Wang, began with only seven members, later expanded as "5.11 Rock Climbing Club"
路線「中華民國」成為龍洞第一條更新 (Rebolt) 的路線
Route "Rebuplic of China" began first re-bolted climb of Long Dong
1995 / 07
開發龍洞後門 - 約在夏季時節開始，王大濟與吳彥儀為主要開發者，柯煥祥 (阿郎)、王佑武 (小歪)、萬啟為協助開發
Developed Back Door area - Began in/around Summer, Ta-Chi Wang and Yen-Yi Wu were the major developers, Huan-Shiang Ko (A-Lang), Yuo-Wu Wang (Xiao-Wai), Chi-Wei Wan were the assistants
1995 / 11 / 12
95'魔障 - 第一條由國人開發的5.13a路線。開發者：吳彥儀
Devil’s Challenge ‘95 - The first 5.13a climb developed by Taiwanese climber. Developer: Yen-Yi Wu
1997 / 04 / 19
CTAA (Chinese Taipei Alpine Association) established Rock Climbing Committee
1998 / 09
Ming-Jeh Kang released Long Dong topos
1998 / 11
朴來慶 / Yum Yum 出版《前進龍洞岩場》攀岩指南
Yum Yum published "Lungtung Rock Climbing Guide" guidebook
1999 / 07 / 15
A TV show "Taiwan Expedition" broadcasted a feature program of Long Dong
2000 / 07 / 22
Taipei County Association Cup Rock Climbing Competition (National Rock Climbing Invitation Tournament)
2005 / 07 / 10
Fatal accident occurred at Back Door. The injury has been transported to Keelung Chang Gung Memorial hospital by boat and pronounce dead later that night.
2006 / 03 / 31
羅馬修 / Matt Robertson 發表《龍洞傳統攀登》攀岩指南。譯：王宏祥
Matt Robertson published "Long Dong Trad Climbs" guidebook. Translated by Hong-Xiang Wang (Sean)
2006 / 06 / 25
The first broad-scale rebolting conference of Long Dong, due to the princeple of development and maintenance of Long Dong climbing routes
2006 / 08 / 05
Long Dong Day - The first broad-scale route maintenance action in Long Dong
2008 / 05 / 25
Fatal accident occurred at Bulletin Board, Long Lane. The injury has been transported to the hospital by boat and pronounce dead later that night.
2011 / 03 / 09
Route "Rebuplic of China" had 2nd round rebolting. It has been the starting point of another wave of route maintenance, and further contributed to the establish of Long Dong Rebolting Project of next year
2012 / 04 / 01
Jao Hsiuan Hung (Jeremy) sent an open project "#266 Overhang Arête" and named as "Hongsanity". Original difficulty was 5.14b, but after a few repeat-climb, the first ascent posted an article and downgrade to 5.13c. Since the day of the first ascent was the printing day of the new guidebook, so the route information was unable to update.
2012 / 05 / 11
Long Dong Rebolting Project established Facebook page
2013 / 09 / 12
Alex Honnold來臺並造訪龍洞，在後門地下二樓完成一條新路線首攀。原估計難度約5.14a，Alex在第二次嘗試完攀，並命名為「Happy Ending」，評定難度約5.13a/b，詳情請見岩友的紀錄文章
Alex Honnold came to Taiwan and visited Long Dong (Back Door area), tried an estemate 5.14a project, and made his first ascent on second attempt. He named this route as "Happy Ending" via email few days later, and gave the grade as 5.13a/b. See more details in this Traditional Chinese article.
2014 / 02 / 12
The first consensus conference gathered local and foreign climbers (Established at Shake House Coffee Shop)
2014 / 07 / 19
Long Dong Rebolting Project decided a resolution to use only titanium bolt for future maintenance
2015 / 07 / 24
音樂廳「大鼓」路線上方固定點的兩個bolt同時斷裂失效，導致一位新加坡岩友墜落地面，所幸當時該岩友離地面不遠，因此只受到輕傷。本起事件發生後，龍洞Re-Bolt計畫團隊成員去函Petzl詢問該款bolt (Collinox)材質種類，才得知並非大家認知中的都是以316不鏽鋼製成，2010年以前出廠的版本為304不鏽鋼，因此本事件也引發許多岩友對龍洞304 Bolt議題的關注與憂慮
The two bolts of the anchor of Big Drum in Music Hall have both failed at the same time, caused a foreign climber fell to the ground, luckily the climber was only four meters away from the ground, didn't get any serious injury. After this incident, a member of Long Dong Rebolting Team has emailed to Petzl, asking about the actual material of the model of bolt (Collinox), and thus we learnd that Collinox is not all made with 316 stainless steel, before 2010, it was made with 304 ss. So this incident has also raised people's concern on the issue of 304 bolts in Long Dong.
2015 / 09 / 06
Long Dong Rebolting Project conducted the first bolt pull-test in Music Hall, instructed by Yen-Jay Chen, Ascent International Rope Access Services Ltd.
2016 / 02
The original rock stairs at Back Door has been torn down by Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area Administration
2016 / 05 / 17
Climber got attacted by the parent falcons while climbing on the second pitch of Freedom Crack in Grand Auditorium. After this incident, the climber posted the video on the social website intended to warn the climbing community, but surprisingly the video drawn a large number of non-climbers due to the exposure of the falcons' habitat. However, this incident also opened up the communication between climbing community and Keelung Birdwatching Association, helped all the climbers to understanding more about Long Dong, and its nature environment.
Due to the falcon conservation issue, Long Dong Rebolting Project made an appeal to climbing community to stop climbing Freedom Crackincluding the other routes in falcons' habitat zone temporary. It was the first time that the wall had to be temporary closure due to wildlife conservation.
2017 / 02 / 19
Keelung Birdwatching Association confirmed that the falcons were breeding at Grand Auditorium area again this year, therefore the whole area had to be temporary closure. Then on 23rd June, after they confirmed that the parent falcons have failed the breeding this year, they suggest climbing community to reopen Grand Auditorium area
2019 / 05 / 05
音樂廳路線「#352 馬爾莫拉達」發生重大墜落意外。當事人在先鋒攀登過程中因不明原因墜落 (約 3m) 並致使其後腦撞擊岩階 (有配戴岩盔)，導致後腦枕部撕裂傷並疑似顱內出血。由於事發地點位於岩壁高處，救援困難，經現場多位岩友協助將傷者救回地面交由急救人員施以急救，再經船艇接駁送至基隆長庚醫院後宣告不治，是龍洞岩場救援計畫啟動以來第一起死亡意外。
A fatal accident occurred on #352 Marmolada. A climber took an approximately 3 meters fall for unknown reason, and hit the ledge with the back of his head (with helmet on) on the upper part of the route, caused an open wound and suspected ICH. Since the first scene was high on the wall, increased rescue difficulties, after more than 20 volunteered climbers' help on the scene, the injury was rescued to the ground and the fist aid has been provided by the EMTs, and then transported by boat and ambulance to Keelung Chang Gung Memorial Hospital, but the injury has pronounced dead by the night. This is the first fatal accident since the LD EMS Project initiated.
2019 / 05 / 16
大禮堂路線「#313 通道」發生雙人同時墜落的重大意外。三位攀岩者原計畫以三人繩隊攀登該路線，先鋒者完攀後以傳攀器材架設固定點，並確保隨攀者至確保站，但就在兩人將體重轉移至固定點上時，該固定點 (三個保護支點) 卻因不明原因而全數脫出，導致兩人墜落約20m撞擊地面，其中一人因傷勢嚴重而陷入昏迷，第三位攀岩者旋即趕往周邊區域求援。在經過其他攀岩者與急救人員搶救後，兩名傷者均由船艇接駁送往基隆長庚醫院急救，傷勢較重者經院方搶救後雖脫離險境，但此意外仍對其造成嚴重的永久性傷害。本次事件是龍洞第一起多傷患重大意外。
A severe multiple-casualty accident occurred on #313 Canaleta. Three climbers planned to climb the route by party of three, the leader finished the climb and built the anchor with trad gear and belayed the second up to the anchor, when the second reached the belay station, the two both weighted on the anchor, but the 3-piece-anchor popped out for unknown reason, caused the two climbers fell approximately 20 meters and hit the ground, one of the two was unconscious by severe injuries, the third climber ran to other areas and call for help. After being rescued by other climbers and EMTs, both injuries have been transported to Keelung Chang Gung Memorial Hospital by boat and ambulance, after several surgeries and long-time recovery, the severely injured climber still bares permanent disability. This is the first severe multiple-casualty accident ever happened in Long Dong.
2020 / 06 / 10
為參酌相關單位之專業意見，TOCC正式行文邀請官方單位 (警察、消防、海巡、空勤、東管處) 針對《龍洞岩場救援計畫》修訂作業召開聯合會議。此為龍洞攀岩社群首度向所有相關單位正式介紹本計畫 – 會議紀錄
Due to the collection of professional opinion of the authorities, TOCC invited local police station, fire department, coast guard, airborne service, and NEYC, to discuss the revision of LD EMS Plan. This is our first time to officially reveal LD EMS Project to the authorities. – Meeting minutes
資料來源 | Reference
▸ 台灣攀岩資料庫 | Taiwan Rock Climbing Database www.climbing.org
▸《台灣攀岩運動發展之研究—以攀岩者俱樂部為例 (1981-1989) 》 李潛龍先生論文 | "A Research on the Development of Taiwan Rock Climbing (1945 - 2006)" by Lee Chien-Lung
▸ 雪原上的春天 / 張文溪先生網誌 | Uenxi Chang's Blog himalayata.blogspot.com/search/label/早期爬岩
▸ 龍洞re-bolt計畫 | Rebolting Project FB Group www.facebook.com/groups/449215751759830
▸ 龍洞岩場救援計畫 | EMS FB Group www.facebook.com/groups/189209431120999
▸ 龍洞攀岩資料庫 | Long Dong Rock Climbing Database www.climbio.org (網站關閉中)
Due to lack of documentation, there are only a few resources of early events, therefore the Event List above may not be completely accurate. If you can provide new information or documentation for correction or addition, we would be grateful for your sharing!