龍洞岩場
LONG DONG
ROCK CLIMBING
© 翁紹評 | Shao Ping Weng
龍洞岩場，係由前輩張文溪先生於 1978 年首度發現，並由蔡光隆、蔡楓彬、周德九、應詩澄、蔡文宗、何中達、林亮光、郭建亨、劉富榮等人協力開發，接著再由後繼的攀岩者接手，發展迄今已近五十年。在這漫長歲月中，一代又一代不同國籍的攀岩者們努力去蕪存菁，為這座岩場與龍洞攀岩社群孕育出獨有的攀岩文化與倫理，同時也發展出極其珍貴的自主管理模式，累積並維護相關資源，讓龍洞成為全臺最具規模的天然岩場，進而躍上國際攀岩舞台。
The potential for climbing at Long Dong (Dragon Cave) was discovered by Uenxi Chang in 1977, and developed by Guang Lung Tsai, Te-Chuo Chu, Shih Cheng Ying, Wen Tzung Tsai, Chung-Da Ho, Liang Guang Lin, Chien Hong Kuo and Fu Zong Liu, with development continuing from those early days right up to the present day. Climbers from multiple generations and countries have contributed to the development of the Long Dong climbing community, and a unique climbing culture and ethic arose and grew. The community also created a valuable self-management model for Long Dong, accumulating and maintaining a broad range of resources, as Long Dong, the premier climbing area in Taiwan, became well-known among climbers around the world.
影像來源：張文溪、黃一元、王大濟、林友民、李世藩、Yu Chang、劉乃勳 | Image: Uenxi Chang, Yi Yuan Huang, Ta Chi Wang, Yu Ming Lin, Shih-Pan Li, Yu Chang, Nai Shun Liu.
爬路線，也爬梳歷史
EVOLUTION OF GUIDEBOOKS TO LONG DONG OVER THE YEARS
開發初期，龍洞的路線資訊僅靠口耳相傳，並未留下正式的文字紀錄，直到 1993 年 2 月，資深前輩劉乃勳 (牛奶) 以手繪方式發表了《大砲岩&龍洞岩場路線圖》，以及隨後由美國岩友傅抱仁 / Paul Foster 編輯並印製《Draft Climbing Guide to Taiwan's Premier Rock Climbing Area: Longdong / Dragon Cave》，龍洞的路線資訊從此才有了正式的紙本紀錄。1998 年 11 月，由韓國岩友朴來慶 / Yum Yum 與呂金霙彙編出版的《前進龍洞岩場》，是第一本大量發行的龍洞攀岩指南；而在 2005 年，由美國岩友羅馬修 / Matt Robertson 與王宏祥合力出版的《龍洞傳統攀登》，則是第一本精選龍洞傳統攀登路線的攀岩指南。
The knowledge of Long Dong routes in the early days depended on word of mouth. Proper documentation of Long Dong’s routes started in February 1993, when Mr. Nai-Shing Liu (aka Milk) released his hand-drawn topo "Big Cannon Rock & Long Dong Rock Climbing Topos." Later, the American climber Paul Foster published "Draft Climbing Guide to Taiwan's Premier Rock Climbing Area: Longdong / Dragon Cave." In November 1998, Korean climber Yum Yum and Taiwanese climber Jing Yin Liu published "Lungtung Rock Climbing Guide," the first mass-produced Long Dong rock climbing guidebook. Later, in March 2006, American climber Matt Robertson and Taiwanese climber Sean Wang published "Long Dong Trad Climbs," the first selected trad climbing guidebook of Long Dong.
大砲岩&龍洞岩場路線圖
劉乃勳
Big Cannon Cliff & Long Dong Topos
Nai Shing Liu
Draft Climbing Guide to Taiwan's Premier Rock Climbing Area: Longdong / Dragon Cave
傅抱仁 | Paul Foster
前進龍洞岩場
朴來慶、呂金霙
Longtung Rock Climbing Guide
Yum Yum, Chin Yin Lu
龍洞傳統攀登
羅馬修、王宏祥
Long Dong Trad Climbs
Matt Robertson, Sean Wang
然而，在發表《龍洞傳統攀登》後，羅馬修並未停下腳步，而是再度號召更多岩友組成新團隊，著手進行另一項更大規模的新版攀岩指南計畫；身為作者的羅馬修，號召來自英國的 Alastair Dunbar 擔任英文編輯、臺灣岩友吳彥儀擔任中文翻譯、鐘仁謙擔任中文編輯、陳震宇則擔任平面設計，透過全體攀岩社群的鼎力協助，此團隊耗費六年時間彙整大量的相關資料，終於在 2012 年 4 月順利出版《Rock Climbing Taiwan | 臺灣龍洞攀岩》，成為龍洞有史以來第一本路線收錄最完整、資訊也最詳盡的龍洞攀岩指南。
However, after publishing "Long Dong Trad Climbs," instead of stopping, Matt recruited a new team of climbers to focus on a more ambitious new guidebook project. With Matt as author, he recruited the British climber Alastair Dunbar as English editor; Taiwanese climber Yen Yi Wu as Chinese translator; Marcos Chung as Chinese editor, and Maurice Chen as graphic designer. With the help of the entire local climbing community, the crew spent 6 years gathering and editing every accessible detail of every climbing route, and in April 2012 the team published "Rock Climbing Taiwan," the first fully-comprehensive Long Dong guidebook.
臺灣龍洞攀岩 | Rock Climbing Taiwan ©2012
羅馬修 Matt Robertson、吳彥儀 Yen Yi Wu、Alastair Dunbar、鐘仁謙 Marcos Chung、陳震宇 Maurice Chen
為自己爬
也為眾人而爬
COMMUNITY
SERVICE
隨著數十年來的發展，龍洞岩場也逐漸衍生出各種公共議題，其中除了與攀岩安全息息相關的「固定點更新」與「岩場意外救援」之外，同時也包含了天然岩場的環境與生態議題。長年以來，攀岩社群向來都以正面的態度與積極的作為來面對這些公共事務，努力維護這座全臺灣最珍貴的天然岩場。
During Long Dong’s decades of evolution into a major climbing area, a range of issues affecting the public have arisen, including safety-related topics such as bolt maintenance and rescue preparedness, as well as environmental topics such as pollution and the ecological health at and around the crags. Over the years, the local climbing community has increasingly taken positive actions to address these issues in order to protect and maintain the most treasured climbing area in Taiwan.
固定點更新計畫
針對「固定點更新」，龍洞攀岩社群組成「龍洞固定點更新團隊 / LD Rebolting Team」，自 2010 年起便開始進行一連串大規模的相關作業，舉凡錨栓 (bolt) 普查、老舊固定點移除與更新、建立固定點資料庫、開發臺灣自製鈦合金錨栓、發展錨栓拉力測試檢測機制等等，為龍洞攀岩社群提供最全面的固定點維護方案。
The Long Dong climbing community formed the Long Dong Rebolting Team to test, maintain and replace bolts on climbing routes. In order to provide the best possible safety conditions regarding fixed protection, the Rebolting Team has, since 2010, conducted routine monitoring of all bolts in Long Dong, removing old bolts, maintaining a database of all bolts, procuring new titanium bolts, performing strength testing, and managing all necessary tools and equipment for performing such activities safely.
龍洞岩場救援計畫
而針對「岩場意外救援」議題，具備消防背景的岩友也主動運用其專業背景與人脈資源，協調在地警消實地踏勘、評估龍洞岩場的每一個角落，找出所有合適的陸、海、空救援點，並列出各分區所需的醫療器材，為龍洞岩場量身打造，擘畫出完整的岩場救援計畫，同時也不定期舉辦各式救援訓練課程與應變演練，目的就是為了讓不幸受傷的岩友或非攀岩者，能夠在第一時間得到最好的照護，並在最短的時間內送到醫院接受完善的救治。
The Long Dong Accident Response Plan was organized by climbers who include Emergency Medical Technicians and other emergency-response professionals who have substantial connections with relevant authorities. Working together with acclaimed emergency response experts from national fire-rescue teams having extensive experience in major rescue missions across Taiwan, a joint team investigated the entire Long Dong area to determine the optimal landing points for airborne and seaborne rescue craft, identified locations to store rescue/medical equipment to be used in emergencies, and conducted several rescue seminars. Based on these activities, the Long Dong Rescue Plan was developed, putting into place a formal action plan to allow injured climbers to be treated properly at the scene and, when necessary, to be transported to hospital care as quickly and safely as possible.
環境保護計畫
針對「岩場環境議題」，攀岩社群每年至少一次會由岩友自主發起 「龍洞大掃除」的大規模淨灘活動，號召所有在龍洞從事任何活動的人們，共同清理龍洞沿岸的大量海漂垃圾，也曾協同龍洞的潛水 / 水上活動愛好者，共同發起水上 / 水下清運活動，集眾人之力讓龍洞重回純淨的原始面貌。
Among the range of environmental issues, the value of maintaining a “clean Long Dong” was easily recognized, and clean-up activities to tidy up the climbing area were among the first environmental actions organized by the climbing community. Organizers have rallied the climbing community to join together in the semi-annual Long Dong Cleanup Day, an enthusiastic effort to clean out all garbage found at Long Dong. Recently, participation has expanded to include not only the climbing community, but other passionate communities at Long Dong as well, such as the diving community. These events continue to grow and allow participants to roll up their sleeves and work together to collectively clean up the place we love and return Long Dong to its original natural state, both above and below the surface of the water.
生態保育計畫
而針對「岩場生態議題」，除了夏季常見的蜂群與爬蟲類生態之外，龍洞最受人矚目的，就是常在岩壁上棲息與繁殖的一級保育類猛禽：遊隼。每年 2 – 6 月，龍洞攀岩社群會主動聯繫在地監測單位 – 基隆市野鳥學會，徵詢當年的遊隼繁殖狀況，一旦確認繁殖，便會公告封閉相關區域禁止所有攀岩活動，以避免過度的人為干擾導致親鳥棄巢，讓這珍貴的一級保育類動物能夠順利地繁衍下一代。
In addition to the efforts to keep Long Dong clean, other environmental concerns are related to protection of the wildlife native to the area. These include plants, birds, bees, wasps, reptiles, intertidal species, and others. The aim is simple: to conserve the ecology of Long Dong in its natural condition to the degree possible. In particular, for the migratory peregrine falcon, the climbing community has been working together with the Keelung Wild Bird Association. Each year, after climbers observe the peregrines starting to nest, the climbing community posts notices on location as well as on social media to prohibit all activities around the nesting area. This effort serves as a model for future ecological conservation activities at Long Dong.
上述所有的龍洞岩場公共事務，經過攀岩社群長年來不斷地討論和改進，逐漸發展出在地獨有的自主管理模式，讓龍洞岩場能夠在有限度的開發下，以更全面的具體作為保有其獨特的岩場文化與在地特色，同時也為龍洞岩場的永續保留了更多可能。
These achievements show that, acting as a community and through ongoing discussion and improvement, not only can we develop a fully autonomous way of managing all the public affairs at Long Dong, but we can also cultivate a more consciously aware and more sustainable Long Dong and the local climbing culture embedded in it.
造訪龍洞前，請先仔細了解重要的安全資訊，讓你更準確地評估風險。
Please read essential information which help you assess risks precisely for your safety before being in Longdong